Photos courtesy of Dionne Fraser Carter
With designs like these, Dionne Fraser Carter shows that crochet can mean much more than dainty doilies grandma used to make.

12/7/2005 10:00:00 PM 

No doilies need apply
A Bronzeville artist delivers decidedly uncrotchety crocheting

By KATIE CROWTHER, Medill News Service

Donne Fraser-Carter is redefining the word "crochet" to signify much more than the dainty doilies grandma used to make. Her Di-o fashion line reimagines the style with a portfolio that runs the gamut from purses and shawls to skirts and sweaters.

"I love what I am seeing," said Sarah Weatherbee, a resident of Schaumburg who was checking out the Di-o creations at Habit boutique, 1951 W. Division St. in Wicker Park. "I am definitely going to buy this knit bolero. That’s why I love coming down from the suburbs to shop at boutiques like this; you can find really unique items."

Habit owner Lindsey Boland says Di-o pieces are very popular with a wide range of customers. It’s the only outlet in Chicago, besides the Di-o showroom in Bronzeville, where Fraser-Carter’s designs are featured.

"I am really impressed with Dionne’s creations," she said. "They appeal to both urban and suburban clients; both conservative professionals and eclectic artsy types. They can be for both work and play. They make you feel feminine and fashionable."

According to a study by Research Inc., 38 million women crochet or knit in their spare time. But while the poncho and pashmina trend has worked its way into the closets of many American women, Di-o emphasizes unique designs, a broad color palette and plush fabrication.

The pieces range from jewel-toned crocheted purses to reconstructed denim skirts with vintage fabric sewn in to soft crocheted dresses with bright bands of color. Fraser-Carter recently added Baby Di-o, Original Bridal, and Di-o Home to her collection.

Fraser-Carter describes her work as original, wearable art. "You will never see anyone with the same piece," she said. "I pride myself on handcrafting each piece, which provides a lot of artistic freedom. I don’t use patterns; I just create and have a passion for making beautiful things for people who want to look and feel beautiful."

Half of Di-o’s business is generated from trunk shows and boutique placement. The other half comes from custom orders. The smaller items, like purses, shawls, and children’s clothing, cost anywhere from $30 to $200. Larger pieces like skirts, sweaters, and dresses are sold in the range of $300 to $800. Custom work usually begins at a base price of $350.

Fraser-Carter, who was born in Guyana but moved to Chicago when she was 3, learned from her grandmother how to sew. She remembers being drawn to the arts and fashion from a young age.

"In grade school, I started cutting up clothes to make them my own," she said. "Then when I started at a Catholic high school, I would accessorize my uniform with funky tights, men’s ties and unique jewelry, to make it reflect my style."

The 28-year-old got started with her business in 1999 and has had increasing sales every year since its inception.

"In the beginning I would sell at festivals and markets; anything to get my work seen," she said. "It was hard as a mother too, because it means not always participating in every fashion show or getting the most exposure because your family needs to come first, but we made it work and have continuously grown."

In 2004, Fraser-Carter added a business partner, Nicole Howell, who designs jewelry for the line and helped create their chic Bronzeville showroom at 4518 S. Drexel.

"The showroom itself is a piece of art," said Howell, who was born and raised in Chicago. "The building was built in the 1800s and has such a sense of character and class. Not to mention being in such a culturally and artistically rich community like Bronzeville is such a great fit for us."

Di-o’s fashions are what brought Kim Nealy, of South Holland, back to Bronzeville to shop. "I saw some of her work and knew I had to have it," she said. "When I wore the crocheted outfit I bought from her, I felt absolutely beautiful and got so many compliments. It was my night, and that is what Di-o represents: women feeling special in what they have on."

But it’s not just the designs that keep Nealy coming back. "Dionne’s spirit is so kind and giving," she continued. "Once you meet her and work with her, you want her to continue making your clothes because she is a great person who is passionate about what she does and that shines through in the quality of her work."

Fraser-Carter is looking to expand Di-o locally, as well as nationwide. Her biggest concern, however, is maintaining the distinctiveness of her designs.

"Dionne doesn’t want her designs to ever fall into the ‘mass-produced looking’ category," Howell said. "Making everything by hand is a growing challenge as the business expands and branches out."

Yolanda Davis, a friend and longtime customer of Fraser-Carter, sees the potential. "I see Di-o doing big things. Dionne showcases her work in as many fashion shows and trunk shows as she can. Wherever she goes, people are asking for more. She is very talented. I have no doubt her work will end up at New York City’s famed Fashion Week in a few years," she said.